For a look at more contemporary winemaking, we spent an afternoon at Penfolds in Nuriootpa, one of the Barossa Valley's oldest wineries, founded in 1844 by Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold, who made "hospital-grade" brandy. We donned lab coats and set off to make a new wine. In the winemakers lab we stood before a forest of beakers, graduated cylinders and a bottle each of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, or GSM.