On a peaceful side street close to the city centre, it's the quintessential oasis of calm in a famously riotous town. A restored 19th-century mansion filled with Venetian antique furniture and chandeliers. 32 rooms in three sizes are all carpeted and airy with attractive marble bathrooms. The Jardin de Orfila restaurant opens out on to a charming terrace garden, best enjoyed on a warm spring night. The hotel is a destination for those who seek quiet intimacy rather than thrills: the Orfila does not do excitement. Price rating: 5/5
