And yet, crossing the border, you know you've left the sleek, prettified-for-tourists spit-and-polish of Croatia for a place that's grittier, raw, and a bit exotic. While Dubrovnik and the showpiece Dalmatian Coast avoided the drab, boxy dullness of the Yugoslav era, less affluent Montenegro wasn't so lucky. Between the dramatic cliffs and historic villages, you'll drive past grimy, broken-down apartment blocks and some truly unfortunate resort-hotel architecture. Montenegro is also a noticeably poorer country than its northern neighbor...with all that entails. Still, nothing can mar the natural beauty of Montenegro's mountains, bays, and forests.
